August 16-19, 2023
107 NM, 4 hours 5 minutes
This summer has presented with a lot of life that needed be handled and left very little time to PNW vacation, but with good friends and an itinerary of new places, our trip through the Southern Gulf Islands in BC was still top on the priority list.
We started our trip with an overnight on San Juan Island at Friday Harbor. We left the Poulsbo Yacht Club for a smooth 90 nautical mile trip through Saratoga Passage and Deception Pass. Aside from sometime riptide at Deception, it was our smoothest trip up to the islands.
Our goal was Canada for the duration of the cruise. We had a leisurely start to our morning left in the states and headed North to Bedwell Harbor, where we would clear customs. But before we could speak to the BC Customs, we spent some time on the water answering questions from US Customs. Our party blames my flying a Canada flag from the boat. Maybe, maybe not. They were quick with the questions, making sure to have Doug show his face to prove he wasn’t being held against his will. The border patrol agents seem to be done with the interrogation about the same time they ran their boat into our davit mounted dinghy. Aside from some scuffing, looks to be a no harm, no foul.
To clear customs it was a 17 nautical mile trip and a 47 minute cruise to Bedwell Harbour. Bedwell sits between South Pender Island and North Pender Island. The customs dock is near the Poets Cove Resort & Spa Marina. We didn’t end up staying here, but it is on the list for another trip.
A customs officer meets you at your boat, directs you to nominate one individual to collect passports, and head for the bank of phone booths at the top of the dock. Once at the phone I answered questions on passengers, weapons, food, and alcohol. The half a case of wine and three bottles of liquor met their level of “you can keep it”. Like last year when we went through Canadian customs, they didn’t ask many questions on pets and they didn’t ask for their Rabies Certificate, although I would still make sure to have them. Once complete with the phone call, I handed over our passports to the office and met officers who then board the boat to complete a search. The officers we had were pretty quick, but the sister ship with us got a little more of shakedown. Though, they do appear a little suspicious!
After getting the all clear, we continued through the harbor to Pender Canal, which looked to be the only connection between North & South Pender Island. It was very shallow for the majority of the passage. Port Browning Marina Resort was our stopping point for the next two nights. The resort has a small dock with limited slips (maybe less than 50) and made for a fast walks to the pub, full facilities, swimming pool, ice cream & coffee, and large activity field where the pups can run.
I am affectionately (I think) being called the cruise director for our vacation.
Our first activity was the Seastar Winery. While it could be within walking range at about 1 hour away, the roads here are fairly narrow, very windy, and enough traffic that I wouldn’t recommend the jaunt on foot. We called the local service, Lightening Taxi, to pick us up and drop us off. A $20 CAD ride each way.
Seastar was a great way to kickoff the trip and set the tone for good wine, good eats, and good people. They served only whites and two that were bubbly. We would label ourselves as red wine people, but enjoyed the flights and the staff. In addition to wine, they home the Truss food truck. Wow on the food coming from the executive chef within. I am not a raw oyster girl or I wasn’t until this trip. On the first order Dave asked for BBQ’d oysters and I was told to put him on “the coach”. On the second order I added the dumplings, which were a little like a ravioli pouch of yumminess.
Activities for our second day included an island walk to Heart Trail. This was a quick walk through the woods with an added bonus of handmade hearts (some anatomical) with affirmations and advice. The majority of our 5 mile tour by foot was on the islands roadways. Again, pretty windy and not my favorite place to be getting my steps in. We did get to run into three Car Stops where I could have changed my mind. Hitchhiking in these islands appears to be common place.
The trip to Seastar Winery came with a recommendation to visit the winery in Saturna on Galiano Island. Residence count on the island is 350 to the 2500 on Pender Island. You arrive by boat and it was only 3 miles from Port Browning. We secured our mooring bouy reservation and lowered the dinghy down for our ride to another new beautiful BC location. Galiano Island is home to feral goats, so it was fitting that we had lunch at the Feral Goat Bistro. We didn’t get to see any of the feral ones (heard some), but we did get to meet Ruth who was dropped by an eagle when he was a tiny goat at the winery and rescued by the owners of the neighboring farm.
Life changing tip! Order the crispy brie!
Our day ended back at resort with time playing with dogs in the field and dinner on the deck of the pub.
Note: Water restrictions in the islands. If you can get any at all, it will be limited. Don’t make plans for washing the boat and utilize the onsite facilities for showering. Garbage is also a pay to get rid of.
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